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Although many traditional pub names came about hundreds of years
ago and need a bit of explaining, the world's most famous bar is
called, quite simply, Harry's Bar, which sounds straightforward
enough but there's a quite a story behind it even so. The name has
caught on, too: every Harry's Bar you walk into throughout the world
derives its name from the original Harry's Bar, on Calle Vallaresso
near St Mark's Square in Venice.
First opened in March 1931 by Giuseppe Cipriani, Harry's Bar became
an instant success when Giuseppe's imaginative cocktails proved
popular with young Venetians. However, with the outbreak of the
Second World War, the fascist authorities prohibited the use of
English names and Giuseppe was forced to change 'Harry' to 'Arrigo'
(the Italian version of the name). Then, in 1943, the bar was closed
to the public and became a mess hall for German and Italian officers.
At the end of the war, as Europe slowly returned to normal and people
began rebuilding their shattered lives, Cipriani reverted to the
original name for his watering hole. Harry's Bar once again opened
its doors to tourists and locals alike, immediately becoming popular
with the likes of Noël Coward, Humphrey Bogart, Charlie Chaplin
and the legendary film director Orson Welles, who placed the same
order every time he visited, two bottles of champagne, drinking
them both.
But it is largely thanks to the writers among the clientele that
Harry's Bar began to establish an international reputation, helped
in particular by Ernest Hemingway, who had his own table in one
corner and who immortalized the bar in his novel Across the River
and into the Trees (1950), not to mention the short story 'In Harry's
Bar in Venice'. It was Hemingway who came up with the name for one
of Cipriani's now famous cocktails, the Montgomery, after the barman
explained to the writer the recipe was fifteen parts gin and one
part vermouth. Hemmingway noted that the proportion of gin to vermouth
sounded like the odds General Montgomery once faced during the recent
war, still managing to win despite being outnumbered by fifteen
to one.
Truman Capote, also a regular customer, spoke lovingly of the hot
shrimp sandwiches, a Harry's Bar delicacy. When another regular,
the opera-loving Countess Amalia Nani Mocenigo, complained, in 1950,
that her doctor had ordered her to eat only raw meat, Cipriani responded
by serving a dish of thinly sliced beef with a light mayonnaise
and lemon sauce topped with Parmesan cheese. Observing that the
dish looked like a painting by Venetian artist Vittore Carpaccio,
who favoured the colours red and white in his work, Cipriani called
it 'Carpaccio' and the dish was subsequently served in restaurants
all over the world.
Since the Second World War, the reputation of Harry's Bar has continued
to spread and it serves a growing clientele, from celebrities and
princes to lowly serfs like you and me. In 2001, in recognition
of its status, the Italian Ministry for Cultural Affairs declared
the Harry's Bar in Venice a national landmark. Which brings me to
the obvious question: who was Harry? During the roaring 1920s a
rich American family decided to pack off one of their number to
Europe in a bid to curb his enthusiasm for drinking. In 1929, in
the care of his aunt and her Pekingese pooch, Harry Pickering moved
into the Hotel Europa in Venice to begin his period of rehabilitation
but, since his aunt liked a drink or two herself, the three of them
idled most of their days at the hotel bar, at that time being run
by twenty-nine-year-old Giuseppe Cipriani, who later noted that
any small bar could have made a decent profit just out of Harry
and his aunt alone.
Quite what possessed the family to send a young man to Italy to
curb his drinking habits is anybody's guess, but within a few months
the pair argued, the aunt flounced out, and Harry found himself
alone in the city without the funds to pay even his drinks bill.
Instead, the young man sat alone in the bar, gazing out of the window,
until one day Giuseppe asked him what his problem was. On learning
of the lad's plight, the barman chose to ignore any previous experience
of lending a customer money - cash and customer invariably never
to be seen again - and handed over his life savings of 10,000 lire
so that Harry could have one last drink with him, pay his bills
and book a boat home to Boston.
Giuseppe was soon reading in the newspapers about the stock market
crash in America of October 1929 and the subsequent Great Depression
that crippled the US economy. As the months passed the barman began
to give up hope of ever seeing his money again, until one day, in
February 1931, Harry strolled back into the Hotel Europa and placed
10,000 lire in cash on the bar, with the words: 'Here you are -
thanks for the money.' The young man then pulled another 30,000
lire out of his pocket and handed it over to the astonished barman,
saying: 'And now you can open a bar of your own.'
Giuseppe Cipriani and Harry Pickering opened the doors to Harry's
Bar on 13 May 1931, and if as many customers who claim to have walked
through the door on that day had actually done so, then, as Cipriani
himself later declared, 'I would have had to have a bar the size
of St Mark's Square.'
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